In my continuing effort to help both technicians and the owners of Universal player pianos made in California, today I'm going to address a few problems involving the tubing. Each of the problems has been found at least three times. To me, this indicates that these are common problems.

First, the trackerbar tubing. Specifically, the tubing that runs from the trackerbar to the manifold in the keybed. For those who don't know, the tubing runs between the keys. They are hollowed out like this )( near the fulcrum, or balance rail pin. The spoolbox is elevated about eighteen inches above the keys.

The most common problem involving the tubing is that it sags or 'weeps' as it ages. Because of its proximity to the backchecks (part of the piano action), it often makes contact with the backchecks... pushing them forward (or towards the back of the piano). When this happens, the effected note cannot properly reset. Most typically, the indication is that the note 'mis-fires' or strikes the strings very weakly. Also, because the keys in this 'section' are lighter at the back, the key dips down ever so slightly in the front.

The easiest way I've found to correct the problem is to weave some vinyl trackerbar tubing in and around the areas above and below the area where the backchecks are located. Then secure the ends of the lines to the underside of the spoolbox platform.. pulling all of the tubes closer to the front of the piano, and away from the piano action.

The second easiest way is to attempt to push the tubes further onto the nipples, which are between the keys. My only concern about using this method is the possibility that the position of one or more of the nipples might change if the tube isn't pushed perfectly straight down. If the nipple did get 'bent' or 'forced' out of position, the tube could easily make contact with the side of a key, causing drag... or "a sticky key".

The second problem related to the trackerbar tubing is about tubing that "falls" off. Well, it doesn't really fall off. It is actually being pulled off. The problem is that the tubing was cut too short. The solution is to install short lengths of tubing as necessary. But I have a question..... Why is the tubing "creeping" off? If it's being stretched to the point where it will eventually come off, why does it stay on at all? And what forces are at work that eventually pull the tube off the nipple?

Well, on to the last of the tubing problems, which involves the main supply tubing and auto sustain tubing. The problem is that the tubing cracks where it is connected to a fitting. The solution is to replace the cracked tubing.

To the owner, the indication that this problem is developing is a slow loss of volume over a period of less than a year. In the extreme, the unit will just stop coming "On". It will seem like it's trying to come on. The roll might even roll forward, but the music won't play. Or, it could look like the music is trying to play, but the hammers aren't actually hitting the strings...

To the technician, a quick physical examination will tell all. And note that I did not say a visual examination. The crack could be on the backside, where you can't see.... So tug on them. Bend them around a little. That way you can tell if they're loose or cracked.

This is another problem that poses a question. Why does the tubing crack? From all appearances, it doesn't seem old enough to be cracking. Also, it doesn't seem to have to 'stretched' very much to get 'over' the fitting. However, it does stretch a little. So, how much stretch is too much? Could there be other factors at work here? The logical answer is 'poor quality tubing'.

There is a bit of a difference between the supply vacuum fittings found in the Universal as compared to those found in a circa 1920's player piano. The Universal fittings are mostly plastic, and the ones that are brass are quite 'long'. Addressing the plastic first, I've noticed that the tubing is much harder at the point where it contacts the plastic. Just a 1/2" away from the fitting, the tubing is relatively supple. Occasionally there is a gooey, sticky substance at the connection point. I can only assume that there is some chemical thing going on between the tube and the fitting.....

Addressing the 'long' brass fittings. These fittings are at least one inch long. The folks at Universal almost always pushed the tubing all the way onto the fitting. This makes removing the tubing very difficult. My recommendation: If you have to remove the tubing, replace it! Don't even bother trying to save it. Slice it open at the fitting, pull it off... throw it away. Chances are it would have cracked open on its own in a few more years anyhow.

If you insist on trying to remove the tubing, try pushing it "On" first. Try hard!! Then, using a wide-blade screwdriver, pry under the edge at the end. See if it gives. Then go to the opposite side and do the same thing. The point is to loosen the tubing from the end first. If you simply pull on the tubing, the chances are great that the tubing will rip (or break) apart even if it is relatively supple.

Musically,

John A. Tuttle
www.player-care.com
Brick, NJ, USA

. For more information about problems with the Universal Player System, read:
(These are articles that I've written for the Mechanical Music Digest from 1996-2003.)

Repairing Universal Player Piano Pouches
Universal Player Piano Sustain & Pump Problems
Universal Player Piano Drawings at Story & Clark
Universal Player Piano Drawings at Story & Clark (cont.)
Pouch Problems in 1970s Universal Player
Value of Universal Player Company Piano
Universal Player Circuit Boards
Universal Parts
Universal problems
Pouches for Universal Piano
Universal/ R22A
Universal Player Piano Schematic
(Be sure to close the new browser that opens after reading any of the above articles. Otherwise, you might have trouble getting back to this web page.)

It should also be noted that according to Robert Stanoszek, who wrote the book "Universal Player Piano Service Manual", there were date codes in two locations in the piano. One is one the Pitman motor. Usually you can see it by taking a mirror and looking on the bottom side of the motor. Another location is on the circuit board. It will have a number like 79-34, which means the 34th week of 1979, or 82-15, which means the 15th week of 1982. Also, Robert said that in his opinion the only significant difference between the P-1 and the P-2 is the electronics.

P-1
1013    3-77  K & C # 708774
1198    1977
1492    1977
2062    11-77
2176    1977
2312    3-78
2351    1978
2430    1978
2665    1978
2782    1-12-79
2914    1979
3053    1979
3159    1979
3171    1979
3176    5-79
3441    1979
3561    5-79

P-2
5018    1980          motor 1979
5558    1980
5635	1980		# 746327
5988    1980
6143    11-11-80
7184    6-81
7500	1982
8579    2-08-84
8900    08-09-85    motor 2-18-1985

Since "Player-Care" is an internet business, I prefer that we correspond via E-Mail (click here to fill out the 'Request Form'). However, if I'm not in the middle of some other activity, you can reach me at 732-840-8787. But please understand that during the hours from 8AM-5PM EST (Mon-Sat), I'm generally quite busy. So, I probably won't answer the phone. If you get the answering machine, please leave a detailed message stating the reason for your call. Also, repeat your name and phone number clearly and distinctly. By necessity, I prioritize everything in my life. And, if you call and just leave your name and number, and ask me to call you back, it might be a day or two before I return your call. Why? Because I don't know why you want me to call and I might not be prepared to assist you in an effective and efficient manner. If you leave me an E-Mail address (which I prefer), spell it out phonetically. The more you do to help me, the more I can help you in return. Don't rush. You have four minutes to record your message.